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FIELD CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Proper field care is essential for successful taxidermy. The process begins with handling the animal correctly as the skin begins to decay immediately upon death. To slow down the breakdown process, it is important to keep the animal cold, and freezing stops it entirely. If you cannot deliver the specimen to a taxidermist within 24 hours, always freeze it.


To ensure the best outcome for your animal trophies, take care to handle them properly and avoid damaging the hide. If you are unsure about the proper care of your specimen, it is best to consult a taxidermist for advice.

For more information on proper field care, check out the helpful videos below.

 

LARGE GAME

For animals such as Deer, Elk, or Bear. always take the animal to the taxidermist as soon as possible. If you must skin the animal yourself, make as few cuts as possible, save as much hide as you can (the more the better) and place the tags carefully in the hide, doing as little damage as possible.

 

AVOID THE FOLLOWING AT ALL COSTS

  • Cutting the throat

  • Hanging the animal by the neck

  • Cut up through the brisket

  • getting the hide wet

  • dragging the animal by the neck

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SMALL GAME

For animals such as coyotes, it's best to let a professional handle the skinning. DO NOT FIELD DRESS the animal. Small mammals spoil quickly due to their thin hide and bacteria. If you're unable to deliver the carcass to the taxidermist immediately, put it in a plastic bag and freeze it as soon as it cools completely. 

 

 

 

 BIRDS

 

When it comes to birds, it's crucial to keep them cool and dry, especially in warm weather. Do not field dress or cut the bird. While still hunting, you can tuck its head under the wing before placing it in a paper or cloth bag to "sweat". Once the bird is cooled, you can prepare it for freezing by pushing a small wadded paper towel into its mouth to prevent blood from getting on the feathers. Tuck the bird's head under the wing and carefully put it into a plastic bag to freeze. Get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. If you need to freeze it for an extended period of time, I would suggest placing a small piece of damp paper towel around the beak and feet, being careful not to put it over the feathers. Then, place it in a large zip-lock bag, remove excess air, and freeze. This will prevent freezer burn and last up to a year.

 

 

 

WILD TURKEY

Proper handling and storage of a turkey for taxidermy work is critical, as these birds are delicate and require more care than big game. Turkey feathers and bones are prone to creasing and breaking, which makes it essential to take precautions when handling them.

 

To preserve your turkey for taxidermy work, avoid wringing its neck and do not gut or pluck any feathers. Instead, tuck the head under a wing or lay it over the back and keep the bird out of sunlight. It's also a good idea to keep a freezer bag with you in the field to store the turkey as soon as possible. Broken bones can be fixed, but missing or broken feathers cannot. So keep the bird untouched until it can be frozen. Nylon stockings are suitable for transporting the bird from the field, but not for storage.

 

When freezing the turkey, it's crucial to avoid bending the tips of the tail feathers or primary wing feathers. It can take up to 48 hours for a turkey to freeze solid, so it's best to deliver the bird to the taxidermist as soon as possible. If that's not possible, freeze it before bagging it. If you plan to store your turkey in the freezer for an extended period, wrap the legs and head in a wet paper towel to prevent freezer burn. To prepare the bird for freezing, place its head in a small plastic bag, fold the head back against the body beneath a wing, and gently fold the wings against the body. Protect the tail feathers using cardboard panels or a flattened box, and tape them securely.

If you need to transport your turkey, Shane Smith's video provides a helpful guide on how to properly skin and prepare the bird for travel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TROPHY FISH

Make sure to take a good digital color photo and avoid bright sun and flash photos. Keep the fish cold, and if you're unable to bring it to the taxidermist right away, freeze it. To prepare the fish for the freezer cover the fish in a damp towel, fold it over on all sides and place the fish in a plastic bag, making sure to keep it as flat as possible, and freeze it. Garbage bags work well for this purpose.

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